Baie de Seine. A travelogue in two parts.

Skipper: Ian Collins  . Crew: Chris Baxendale  , Rich Trim  , Don Hirst  , Neil Webber  and Colin Burbidge  .

(Ian)

In the late 19th Century it was enough for Jerome K Jerome to put three men in a punt on the Thames to achieve lasting literary fame. Move on to the 21st Century and we clearly see the twin influences of television and inflation. BSA puts six men in ‘eVent’, a Dufour 40, and sends them across the Channel to France; after the Brexit vote and all you get is this trip report.

This trip came to life at the tail end of last year when Chris suggested a weekend in Honfleur. It’s a lovely port but a long way to go for a plate of mussels. I had never sailed the Baie de Seine, The home turf of Willy the Conqueror and Calvados and the entry point for the Americans during World War Series 2. A lot for a long weekend but after some planning and some very good advice from those in BSA who had done it all before it seemed 9 days from Hamble Point would suit.

(Don)

Ian, Rich, Chris, Neil, Colin and I planned to meet up at Hamble Point at 1600 on Friday 12 May  . We arrived at 1555 wondering where the rest of the crew might be, our first call was the bar and they were there ready to go. We picked up ‘eVent  ’; she was well appointed and we had a short handover. We loaded provisions and set sail at 1800.I put this forward as a BSA record. We were sensitive to the fact that ‘eVent’ has a draft of 2.2m and we were leaving on Low Water Springs

(Ian)

Approaching Bramble Bank we prepared to raise the sails. Or to be more precise we tried to raise the sails. The Fairhaven Sailing School were flirting with the edge of the sands apparently learning a series of blocking manoeuvres. Each time we turned into the wind there they were directly in our path. Eventually we fooled them and skittered our way across to the Island with half a metre below the keel.

(Don)

We established that the low water warning was working satisfactorily. We soon found our proper course without further incident and headed for the Nab Tower. We then set course for Honfleur and had an excellent sail achieving 7kt until the force3 wind dropped and we were forced to motor. ‘eVent’ is a very fast yacht in light winds.

(Ian)

For those who may not have been to Honfleur it is charming. Imagine National Trust with Oysters and pavement Cafes.

(Don)

We arrived at Honfleur at 1200hrs on Saturday. We were well fendered up in the lock as there are no floating pontoons, just the lock wall and floating bollards set into the wall to loop a warp over. We moored to the waiting pontoon and sought advice from the harbourmaster as the chart indicated that the Inner Harbour is only dredged to 2m. The Harbourmaster allowed us to stay on the waiting pontoon for the duration

(Ian)

The inner harbour is wonderful, a medieval theme park for the alfresco diner. The problem for me was the Harbour side. Looking down on the Visitors Pontoon the place was packed with itinerant diners to the very edge and I had no wish to provide the floor show. However in the outer harbour there are now, in the park adjacent to the pontoon, pleasant modern facilities and not even the signs of a packed lunch

(Don)

Scouting parties were sent ashore to procure bread, wine and other provisions. We also booked a table for an evening meal.

On Sunday we looked around Honfleur. We had a panic when we chose to eat late, 1930 French Time and were refused by two restaurants. We did find one happy to relieve us of our money.

Learning Point---eat early or book when out of the main season.

(Ian)

Monday morning we locked out early at near the bottom of the tide. Beware; unless they do a lot of shovelling very soon Reeds Almanac will be seriously in error. We pushed our way out of the Seine against the incoming tide. Past Le Havre to turn west toward Ouistreham and with a SSW wind had some really good close hauled sailing. I love having dinghy sailors on the crew; they won’t even give away the Boson’s sneeze.

I wanted to go to Caen with all the determination of a two year old wanting ice cream. A town I’d never been to, with one of the largest abbeys in France. This was where Willy the Conk was raised and lived prior to deciding the grass on the other side was greener, ferried his Army across and forever after pig became pork.

Now yet another warning accompanied by a Gallic Shrug. Just about any advice garnered from the internet regarding the Caen Canal seems to be out of date, inaccurate, deliberately misleading or plain wrong. Best advice, just go there, knock, and ask politely at the gate.

(Don)

Ouistreham and the entrance to the Caen Canal. We had lunch on the waiting pontoon then teamed up with two other yachts to enter the lock. The locks are dreadful. We fendered up well. There are no floating bollards just vertical cables fastened to the sides. Smooth climbing ropes are needed to attach the boat so they slide up and down the cables. Inbound we used the large lock which takes large coasters. The water is let in swiftly and strong eddies are set up. After that high adrenalin event we had the gentlest of cruises along the canal .Bridge raising and swings are timed so even the slowest boats can keep up with the convoy. There is a warning note in the almanac that single boats will be charged for bridge movements. The first bridge to be raised is Pegasus Bridge of WW2 fame.

(Ian)

An interesting trip with lifting bridges, swinging bridges, traffic lights and a surprising number of people, cycling, walking often just standing and often waving. Finally we were escorted through the dinghy racing at Caen Sailing Club Regatta by some very polite marshals.

Possibly this is the most sheltered mooring I’ve ever tied up to. Caen Marina 15 km from the sea and surrounded by tall buildings,

(Don)

We arrived in time for an evening meal. Even though the harbour office was closed, and remained closed most of the next day. When the Harbourmaster eventually did turn up he only saw two of the crew. We did say another four could be found in pubs somewhere but he said to count the crew as two as this halves the fee.

(Ian)

Caen is a reasonably large town so quite impossible to enjoy in two evenings and a day but it had begun to grow on me and some day I will go back and enjoy several more evening meals.

(Don)

On Wednesday we left Caen early for Ouistreham to collect some fuel. We arrived at about 1100hrs and the fuel pump did not work. The Marina manager could not get it to work so he sent for the fuel suppliers. We had lunch and finally got fuel late afternoon. We moved the boat clear of the pumps and stayed.

On Thursday we took the early lock out and set sail for St Vaast.

(Ian)

Sailing on a moderate sea with light but consistent SSW winds ‘eVent’ seemed to love being close hauled and creeping up the edge of the wind. We were crossing a chart littered with wrecks and in the misty sometimes rainy distance passing the famous beaches of France forever remembered by their American names. Juno, Omaha, Utah and Gold once strewn with the detritus of war, now thankfully replaced by oyster farms.

Comfortably across the bar and into St Vaast with its ample visitors pontoons, friendly Port Office and small but pleasant facilities.

(Don)

We made it for dinnertime lock in. As a town St Vaast was shut. We sent out scouts to search for any restaurants which were open. One was found in close proximity to the boat providing the tide was out and you could walk across the lock gate. We were treated to the meal of the trip, it was excellent. Chris had a Seafood Platter which had everything, took up most of the table, and was topped by a large spider crab. Before he gets too big- headed he did require considerable assistance from the rest of the crew to finish the dish.

Friday we looked for the promised market where we stocked up on provisions. In the afternoon some of us set off for one of the two forts. We were informed one was not available on foot as low water springs are required. At all other times an amphibious vehicle is used. We set off for the other fort but surprise, surprise it was shut.

(Ian)

I was charmed by St Vaast a real small working fishing port that appears to have turned its back on Walt Disney and all his fairy dust. Its appeal is to the hardier end of the tourist trade. The only visitor attractions I could find were the Forts and the amazing Ferry all well outside the normal tatty come on.

The restaurants rely on good food not glamour and the Saturday Market is so French you can taste the garlic. I will be back.

(Don)

On Saturday we set off for the Hamble Point; this time we planned to enter the Solent by the Needles Channel. After an easy fast crossing in light westerlies we arrived early Sunday morning. We were moored up by 9.00am. Unfortunately someone was using the yacht’s berth so we checked with the office and left ‘eVent’ on an adjacent berth.

(Ian)

This was a good trip and although I’d planned it the wrong way round so I could end up in St Vaast for the Saturday market and the shorter crossing home the winds forgave me and we had some first class sailing.

I wish to say a big thank you to Neil who did everything I should have been doing, because he’s competent and he can do it. To Don for garnering the facts. Rich for the Photographs* (these will, I hope, appear on the website by some electronic ju ju) Chris our political commissar and seafood gourmet. Colin for navigating us back home to Hamble and sorting the accounts. A good crew and good company.

Thank you boys I enjoyed the ride.

*Rich’s photos can be found on Flickr using the following link:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/the_biscuit/collections/72157681198734573/  .