Two boats sail from La Rochelle 2nd – 8th June 2019 – report by skipper Chris Watts

Boat Ovni 395 ‘Dragon Ocean’. Crew Chris Watts (skipper), Ginny Watts, Sue Fowle, Colin Hodges, Elli Gilligan.

Ten hardy souls arrived at Southampton Airport by 0800 for our flight to La Rochelle, it should have been 11 but Gordon had to reluctantly pull out at short notice. He was greatly missed. Our flight to La Rochelle was uneventful, 3 of us caught the bus into town while others waited for taxis to take us to our abode for that night. Most of us were in the Ibis Vieux Port which turned out to be excellent. Colin and Elli were in a different hotel, but we all met up at a cafe by the old port for a cold beer. Getting information from the charter company had been like getting blood from a stone. I’m not sure how many emails Gordon wrote or received but it must have been over 50. One email in the preceding week at least told us that the boats would be on pontoons 4, 5 or 6 and they gave us the names Dragon Ocean and Ohana, earlier in the same week Gordon had been told the boats were in La Trinité!. Also a gentleman by the name of Charles would contact us about the handover time for the following day.After our reviving cold beers we decided to walk to Les Minimes marina and check out where the boats were and where we might victual from. It’s a long walk from the old port, about 30 minutes. You get to the marina quite quickly, but it is massive, over 5000 boats in it, and ours were on the far side.Ex BSA members Ron and Linda Lloyd keep their boat in this marina and I had been in contact with them to warn them we were on our way and they told us the boats were at the far end of pontoon 6. David and I went down to the boats and met Charles who was on board and arranged we would do the handover at 1000 the next day. He said we could do the handover then, but we declined. Ron and Linda met us at the pontoon head for a chat and Linda kindly offered to give our victuallers a lift to and from the supermarket.We decided not to do the long walk back and caught the water taxi instead back to town.On the Saturday morning a taxi managed to squeeze us all in including our luggage and took us to the marina. Charles was already there and a very comprehensive handover took place. While this was going on Elli and Ginny did the shopping. It was probably the most comprehensive handover I’ve done, which was useful as there were certain features of the Ovni I hadn’t come across, especially the lifting keel. The Ovni is an aluminium boat 42 feet long by 14 feet wide the draught is with keel down of 7 feet and up of only 2 feet. This could prove very useful as the week was on neap tides. After the handover and loading the boat with food and plenty of wine we went to a beach cafe for a late lunch, the crew of ‘Ohana’, a Sun Odyssey 349, joined us after their handover, David Ekinsmyth having replaced Gordon as skipper.We finally cast off at 1510, it was a bit like going out of the Hamble on a busy day, boats in every direction and the channel is quite narrow.

Finally out of the fairway we hoisted our sails and had a pleasant sail towards Ile d’Oléron and Fort Boyard, similar to the Solent Forts, but a rounded rectangle. Sailed gently in roughly the right direction for a couple of hours 4 knots with 10 knots of breeze. After a couple of hours sailing we put on the motor and headed towards St Denis d’Oleron. Took the lifting keel up to go over the cill. Moored up, 1820, on a hammerhead at second attempt, I tried to turn and go alongside with the wind just behind, but was blown off. So motored out of harbour turned and came in into wind. But with the flood. Sue ashore with Eli to search out restaurant. David on Ohana came in behind us about an hour later, we took his lines and as it turned out it was not going to be the only time. We all walked into the village to a lovely family restaurant Le Péché Mignon. Had an excellent meal.Sunday dawned fair so started to have breakfast in the cockpit, but very soon we hurried below with hatches battened, as a terrific thunderstorm and very heavy rain hit us. The dinghy hanging on the back had at least 3 inches of water in it. Bung removed and davit lowered and it was soon empty again. The storm lasted about 20 mins. But by the time we left at 1015 it had moved on. David left first and we both set our autopilots for Les Sables - d’Olonne. No wind and calm seas. Cloudy all day, but quite humid. We went round the seaward side of Ile d’Ré. Not much to report, couple of fishing vessels but nothing else. Arrived Les Sables at 1545, moored at harbourmasters office and were allocated a berth. Tied up on H22 by 1620. David arrived at 1800. He could only manage about 5-5.5knts whereas we were doing 6.5 at the recommended revs according to Charles. Drink and nibbles followed by walk to water taxi to take us into Les Sables and we stopped at the first restaurant directly opposite the water taxi.Monday morning was spent discovering the delights of Les Sables, one recommended highlight is the very small area of about 3 streets called L’ile Penotte where artists have made some superb shell frescoes.

So Colin slipped us at 1215 and we motored off. Another windless day, though much more swell, up to a metre. It was, though, nice and sunny. After our salad lunch we hoisted the main for some stability. Seemed to work. A little later we even rolled out the genoa and sailed! We managed an hour without engine. Eventually the wind died and we put the engine on again. The rev counter has now decided not to work only showing about 300 rpm when we were doing 2000. Motored in to Joinville Port on Ile d’Yeu. Tight entrance with a hairpin turn into the marina and a ferry departing in front of us. Ginny was on phone to the Capitainerie who told us to go to the acceuil pontoon and raft up, but we couldn’t find the said pontoon. After another call we found where it was, you have to go beyond the A and B pontoons which are by the entrance. After 3 goes we manage to tie up alongside a Belgium boat. All tied up and drinks in hand by 1800. David and his merry band arrived alongside us at 1930. After helping to sort them out and after they changed, we headed off to the pizzeria.Tuesday was a day for touring the lovely island, but first we unrafted ourselves to pontoon berths. Our crew decided to explore the island on foot. Sue seemed to walk most of it, Chris and Ginny did about 10 miles, including finding out that the bar in St Sauveur was closed by 1330, so had to walk back to Joinville where we met the intrepid cyclists, led by Ewart having a beer and crepe. They too found the bar closed. Colin and Elli joined with Paula and had a pleasant day strolling around and sitting on the beach. That evening we ate at La Gavroche, no not the Michel Roux one, but a super family run one.Wednesday dawned grey and damp with some wind! Left at 0945. Sailed for an hour then of course the wind dropped so we then motored for the rest of the day. Several spells of rain. Arrived off Bourgenay at 1515 and found the leading marks in the murk. Moored alongside another aluminium hulled vessel at the visitor pontoon. After going to Capitainerie we stayed where we were, didn’t fancy the berth they suggested. Turned the boat using the lines and a bit of engine. The others arrived at 1745 we took their lines. They came on board for drink and nibbles.

We all then went to the cafe du port. Not a good evening. Owner waiter was very arrogant didn’t want to help us in any way. Also they ran out of the cuttlefish which several of us wanted. Not impressed. Back on board by 2130 in the rain.Thursday was still grey and a bit damp, forecast was for sun. An early start today to catch the lock at St Martin on Ile de Ré. Hoisted main on exit from harbour and genoa as we changed course for St Martin, wind was SW 3 or 4. We had an excellent sail on this 20 mile leg, the skipper shocked the crew by shouting ‘stand by to go about’ this was the first tack of the week. About 30 minutes later he did the same. This was the last tack of the week. We entered the fabulous little port of St Martin in glorious sunshine at high water we were put alongside the visitor pontoon. Ohana came in about 30 minutes later and after trying a tight berth decided to come alongside us, so we took their lines, again.

Lunch under the bimini before going off to explore St Martin. Ohana hosted the drinks and nibbles tonight, but on our boat, well we did have a bimini! We then went ashore for an excellent meal, though the wine was incredibly expensive.Being in a floating harbour we had to wait till 1230 before we could depart quiet a hardship in that sun filled beauty of a place.

Departed at 1315. No wind again and no clouds, motored back to Le Minimes, fuelled up with 50 litres of fuel. We had motored for 24 hours over the week and had done 150 miles.David as usual was a couple of hours behind us. They came in 3 catways down from us so we took their lines yet again. The observant reader will have noticed that the taking of Ohana’s lines was a regular feature of the week. They only had to jump ashore twice in the week. We ate in one of the many small cafes around the marina and it was the cheapest meal of the week, but still very good.Our flight back wasn’t till 2150 but we had to be off the boats by 0900. The charterers had agreed we could leave our bags on Ocean Dragon which we did. If fact neither boat was going out that day and there was no one from the charterers to actually hand back to. We all headed to a local cafe for breakfast and Ewart arranged taxis for us at 1900. We all then went off, via the water taxi, and did our own thing. We regrouped at a bar at 1800, this wasn’t planned it just sort of happened. We collected our bags and waited at the top of number 6 pontoon for the taxis. At precisely 1900 a convoy of 3 taxis came round the corner and pulled up in front of us. Very efficient. Plane arrived on time and we boarded and headed out to the runway, started takeoff and then the pilot slammed on the brakes and we headed back to the stand in silence. What had happened was a door sensor had given a warning and the captain told us that with a bit of cleaning and some percussive maintenance he was happy to depart. We were only a few minutes late back into Southampton. We were quickly through customs and baggage claim as there were only 23 people on our plane.

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For the trips record on the website, the crew of ‘Ohana’, a Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 349, were David Ekinsmyth (skipper), Alan and Paula Gray, John Hartland and Ewart Hutton.